Tuesday 30 October, Panama City tour

On Ancon Hill with a view over the city

Panama hats for sale - I thought they would suit Richard

An exhausting day. We went for breakfast just as the Germans were leaving. Maybe going to book a sunbed. We met Juan Pablo and Manuel and set off for Ancon Hill, a landmark on the outskirts of the city We had a good view all over the city and saw the Carter plaque commemorating the signing of the treaty to return the canal zone to Panama. The Americans built the canal after the attempt by Ferdinand de Lesseps failed. We also had a good view over the locks and the container port.

Then we went to Casco Antiguo where we had an informative tour, saw the church of San Jose again and also the cathedral, and one couple bought panama hats. We got an icecream.

Our first close-up view of a boat going through the locks

Then we drove round the new city, past Noriega's ruined house (he's in prison now) to Panama Viejo, the old ruins from the Spanish civilisation. Then the most exciting bit was to go to the visitors' centre of the Miraflores lock. It was pouring with rain. We saw a film of the history of the canal, and then had a great view of the locks with two ships going through. We took lots of photos. The sun came out.



Later we took a taxi along the Amador causeway to Isla Flamenco and had dinner at Bucaneros. Now packing to move on tomorrow.

Monday, day one of our guided tour - El Valle

The Chinese monument to railway workers

Up early for an 8 o'clock start. The guide, Juan Pablo, was late. There are two German couples on the trip, and the Panamanian guide speaks German too, which made life a bit tricky. Our driver is Manuel.


We stopped to look at the entrance to the canal from the Chinese memorial. Their workers helped to build the railway.  We heard that Panama has been a democracy since 1990, and the canal zone was opened to Panamanians in 1999.We drove for miles along the Pacific Highway, over the Americas bridge, and then turned inland to El Valle. On the way we stopped on the road to help a sloth to safety. There we visited a small zoo and saw exotic birds, frogs and animals such as tapir, cayman and raccoon.

Sloth in the road - Manuel helped it back onto the grass verge

We stopped at two places in the rainforest to see a waterfall and walk along paths and bridges. I felt rather dizzy: the weather was very humid. Then we drove to a beach on the Pacific, and paddled in the warm sea. There was chance to get a belated lunch in the cafe there. It was a long, bumpy drive back to the hotel.

Manuel our driver, a man of many parts

For dinner we went next door to the Balboa Yacht Club and had fish (probably sea bass) with Chilean Chardonnay.

Sunday 28 October, exploring Panama

The golden altar of San Jose de Oro

Nice breakfast in the spacious hotel restaurant. I had muesli with melon and banana, passionfruit juice, coffee, scrambled eggs and toast. We looked at the hotel map and decided to visit Casco Antiguo, the old part of Panama. We took a taxi and the driver gave us his advice. We went inside the church of San Jose de Oro with a gold altar, the cathedral and the Canal Museum which was very interesting. We learnt about the history of the canal and the last century in Panama.The treaty for the handover of the canal from America to Panama was signed in 1978 by President Carter and came into effect in 1999.

Had lunch in Cafe Diabolicos, a Panamanian restaurant - I had pork with plantain and cornmeal wrapped in a leaf, and R had beef with rice and plantain fritter, with Panamanian beer of course.

I can't wait to see the ships in the canal and the locks. Tomorrow we leave for a tour at 8am with the Spanish driver and another couple.

Saturday 27 Oct, flight to Panama

The lounge of Hotel Le Reve, Santiago, a lovely place

We had an early breakfast at Le Reve, which was one of the nicest hotels we stayed at in terms of ambience and location. We left the hotel at 8.30 with Cynthia, and arrived at Santiago airport before check-in opened. We had another look at the jewellery in the duty free shop.



The flight left Santiago on time and landed in Panama City on time at 5pm local time, 6 hours later. Then we spent over an hour waiting for bags and customs scan. Fantastic sunset. Driver crazy. Hotel Country Inn Amador is quite isolated without a car. Ate dinner at TGI Fridays, part of the hotel. Many of the customers American. Baseball on TV in restaurant; CNN in the room. Slept well.

Friday, Maipo Valley tour

Outside the prestigious Almaviva winery

The 2008 red had to be revered before tasting!

Our guide, Cynthia collected us to drive to the Maipo Valley wine region. However, the driver couldn't find the Almaviva winery. We got there eventually - it was a huge place. We saw all the steel tanks, the grape press and the French barrels, and learnt about the history of winemaking in Chile. The Carmenere grape was discovered in 1996 and was resistant to phylloxera. Then we were allowed to try the Almaviva 2008 red wine blend - but at 250 dollars a bottle it was too expensive to buy.

We had lunch in the Bella Vista area in an area of restaurants and craft shops, Patio Bellavista. We tried sushi. It was excellent. We also looked at lapis lazuli jewellery, a local speciality. Afterwards we went to the park on the hill, but the funicular there wasn't working. We returned to the hotel by metro, talked to Laura on Skype and had a drink in the open bar across the main street, which was very full tonight.

Thursday, exploring Santiago

In Plaza de Armas, Santiago

We enjoyed breakfast at our new hotel - nice cereal, fruit, orange juice, coffee, eggs and toast. Sent some washing to the laundry. We took the metro into the city centre, Plaza de Armas. First we looked round the cathedral, then visited the museum in the central post office. I also managed to get some stamps to go with a few new cards. We tried to visit two museums which were closed - the Precolombian art museum and the Museum of Santiago. Instead we went to Cerro Santa Lucia, a park on a hill. We returned home via the metro. We had an icecream instead of lunch.

At Cerro Santia Lucia

We went for dinner at Le Flaubert along our road. I had delicious onion soup and Richard had pate. Then we chose fish called congrio, which turned out to be conger eel. a Chilean speciality. We had a half bottle of Sauvignon Blanc. I also had yummy chocolate mousse. Very nice meal.

Wed 24 October, flying to Santiago, Chile

A short flight over the Andes from Mendoza to Santiago

Up at 8 for our last breakfast at the Huentala. We checked out, and Mike took us to the airport. We took the short flight over the Andes to Santiago, Chile. Our guide spoke to us in German until she realised we were English. Our hotel, Le Reve, is in the Providencia district, a leafy part of town, with 3 restaurants opposite and shops nearby. We had lunch at a vegetarian place. Our room is very nice. Huge walk-in shower too.

A Mexican snack with our cocktails

We felt quite tired and rested for the afternoon.  At about 8pm we ventured out, foregoing the midnight snacks at the hotel. Across the main street we found an area full of cafe tables with a happy hour. We were enticed in for a cocktail and ended up trying caipirinhos, pisco sours and margaritas - all two for one. We also had nachos with guacamole, and staggered home a couple of hours later. Slept soundly till 8am!

Tuesday in Mendoza

A beautiful avenue of plane trees in Parque San Martin

The lake and rowing club in the park

No tours today. We took a taxi to Parque de San Martin, a large park commemorating the liberator of Argentina and Chile. It was sunny for once. We enjoyed strolling through the plane trees by the large lake, and seeing the rose garden.


After spending the morning there, we had lunch in the lounge of the Sheraton Hotel. After sorting out our cases, we went back in the evening for cocktails, and had dinner at an Italian restaurant recommended by Mike, our guide. Mendoza was a nice small town and we saw all the squares and main streets.

Monday 22 Oct, Andes trip

The temperature dropped when we visited the Andes

Today we went on a trip into the Andes, west of Mendoza towards Aconcagua, the highest mountain outside the Himalayas. It was pouring with rain when we set off and snow had closed the pass over the Andes into Chile, but after driving for over 3 hours we reached a sunny viewpoint at over 3000 m.

The Puente del Inca and layers of coloured rocks in the Andes

The scenery en route was spectacular, quite different from the Swiss Alps. At the highest point we were surrounded by snow-covered mountains at 3 degrees C. We even saw a pair of condors. We took lots of pictures at the Aconcagua National Park, but my camera battery ran out. We had coffee and lunch in a green oasis called Uspallata. We arrived back at 4.30pm.


Later we went out for a drink on the 10th floor of a nearby building, and saw the sunset. We had dinner at a Spanish restaurant, Tasca de Plaza Espana, where we ate fish gratin.

Sunday 21 October, Dia de la Madre

Testing the Cabernet Franc at Achaval Ferrer

Showcasing the wines at Alta Vista

Sunday was Mothers' Day in Argentina. There were flower stalls everywhere. Breakfast was OK, some Swiss-style muesli and nice coffee. We met Mike at 9am prompt. He's German, married to an Argentine. The town of Mendoza was founded in 1561.


We visited 3 wineries south of Mendoza - all different. Alta Vista was French-owned and set in a large garden. We had a tour - all the wineries used concrete tanks to store the raw wine, before blending. We tasted 3 wines there - a white Torrentes, a red Bonarda and  a Malbec, which is the premier Argentinian grape variety. Two Americans on the tour loved everything and wanted photos everywhere.

Enjoying a taste of Malbec

The next winery, Achaval Ferrer, was partly Italian and we tasted 6 wines, all red, including some from the barrel. They make several blended wines at this winery, the best of which was probably Quimera. They also export to Switzerland.


In the third winery, Belasco de Baquedano, we did a smelling test before having lunch with accompanying wines - a rose, three reds and an ice wine. It was a very enjoyable morning.

We returned to the hotel and talked to Laura on Skype. Later we had coffee and muffins at Havanna.

Saturday 20 October, arriving in Mendoza

One of Mendoza's many plazas - this one's Plaza San Martin

The Huentala Hotel foyer was being renovated

Lunch - empanadas and Andes beer

We are are now staying at the Huentala hotel in Mendoza. It took a while to find out our WiFi link. We were up just after 4am to meet Eliana at 5. We were all early but the driver didn't appear, so we took a taxi to Jorge Newbery airport. We checked in for our flight and said goodbye.

Mendoza is a small town at the foot of the Andes, and we saw most of it today. We arrived very early, at 8.50, but couldn't get breakfast at the hotel so went to the Cafe Havanna. Our room is nice but we both feel a bit under par. Lunch was not great.

Our rep is German, Michael. He has arranged a winery tour tomorrow (not so good for me) and a day trip to the Andes on Monday. Weather today quite cold.

Friday 19th, last day in BA

Protests about the Falklands - still a sore point

The Perons are still regarded as heroes

Our last full day in Buenos Aires. Weather dull and cool. After breakfast we spent ages trying to buy stamps - the postal service in Argentina is almost non-existent. Eventually we found Correo Argentina. Then a return visit to Plaza de Mayo with its placards, the cathedral again, the city museum and, more interesting, the new bicentennial museum behind Casa Rosada, with its exhibitions of past presidents, who are all heroes now. Had lunch there.


At the hotel got a message from Eliana, who is picking us up at 5am tomorrow. For our last dinner, we went to Filo, an Italian place a few blocks from our hotel. The food, service and atmosphere were excellent. Had an early night.

Thursday in BA

Beautiful rose gardens in Parque 3 de Febrero

We visited a very nice garden in the Palermo district, Parque 3 de Febrero. We went there by Subte, the subway system, which was easy to use. The park was designed by architect Charles Thays. There were rose gardens, lakes and bridges and a poets' corner.

From there we took a taxi to the fine art museum Museo de Bellas Artes - European and Argentinian art. Not all the exhibits were open. We had lunch in a bar nearby and saw the lady President, Cristina Kirchner, on TV.

A very chic place to have dinner - and by the waterfront

Back at the hotel, Richard ordered a new book on (my) Kindle. In the evening we had a Peruvian meal by the port, at restaurant La Rosa Nautica. Delicious ceviche and salmon, and cheesecake tart for dessert. Makes a change from steak. Our meal cost 700 Argentinian pesos - quite expensive. But worth it!

Wednesday in BA

Guests were allowed to try out the horses

Late breakfast, food not so hot or plentiful. At 10.00 Eliana took us to an estancio outside the city - Santa Susana. On the way there we passed the River Plate football ground. At the estate  we saw the original house, now a museum, had a glass of red wine and a tasty empanada, then sat in the extensive grounds until the asado or barbecue was ready. We had a very good table by the stage, and were served with three salads, chorizo, beef, chicken and sweet pastries. Plus some very adequate Vasco Viejo Argentinian red. The gauchos, in their traditional costumes, served the food.

We had a tango show and musicians - guitar and accordion -  before going outside to see the gauchos riding. The horses are kept for polo and enjoy taking part in displays and competitions.

Some nice red wine with lunch

 In the hotel bar later, I enjoyed a margarita. Richard tried the Quilmas Blue Label beer. We weren't hungry.

Tuesday in BA

The exterior of Teatro Colon, the world-famous opera house

Raining heavily. We had nothing scheduled until the evening so decided to take a guided tour of Teatro Colon, the famous opera house in Avenida 9 Julio. We saw the impressive entrance with three different types of marble, heard how the first two architects both died within a year, saw the beautiful painted ceilings and chandeliers where guests gather to chat and be seen, and then sat in the VIP box to watch a ballet rehearsal.

At the tango show - dinner first, music and dance later

In the evening we went to a tango show and dinner in San Telmo. Most of the audience members were Japanese ladies. It was very enjoyable: the insistent music and dance rhythms get into your head and won't go away,  but the show finished very late. We got back at 12.30 am, feeling exhausted.

Monday in BA

In Recoleta

We went on a city tour by car with Eliana this morning.

We visited the main downtown area, the wealthy Recoleta district with its embassies and Evita's grave, Palermo with its parks and the statue of Evita, San Telmo market, La Boca, the birthplace of tango and home of Boca Juniors, and the modernised port area of Puerto Madero again.

Lunch was disappointing so hoping for a nice dinner tonight.

Colourful La Boca district

Dinner at El Establo was very nice (we had pork) but the place was crowded and I left my diary behind. Almost a tragedy!

Sunday in Buenos Aires

Casa Rosada, the Presidential Palace

Sunny today. We had breakfast at the Claridge and then explored.

First we went to the historic Plaza de Mayo where speeches, protests and demonstrations were held, and saw the historic Casa Rosada and other examples of colonial architecture.We also went into the metropolitan cathedral and saw the tomb of Gen. San Martin, the Argentinian independence hero, being guarded.

Then we walked to Puerto Madero and went on a museum boat, the Fragata Presidente Sarmiento. We had lunch nearby at the new port. I had chicken and a glass of Santa Julia wine.

Elegant Puenta de la Muher - bridge of a woman

On the way back, we almost got caught by a couple offering to help us remove stains on our clothes which appeared to come from above. Later in the evening, we went to nearby Galerias Pacifico and had a coffee. We had a Bellini in the hotel bar. Sleeping that night was difficult.

Saturday fly to Buenos Airos

We arrived in BA after a very long flight via Madrid. Tomorrow we are free to explore. Hope we can sleep well. At least chance to try our Spanish. Met by Eliana who took us to the Claridge hotel. We had a drink in the old style hotel bar.

One day to go

Making sure everything is ready. We are checked in, printing boarding cards, packing. Weather at BA rainy.

One week before leaving

We have made a list, ordered currency, read travel guides and learnt a few words of Spanish. Our outgoing flight seats have been changed and the return flight seats aren't booked yet. We fly via Madrid with Iberia, who are twinned with BA luckily. I have put our four main cities into the world time zones map on my new tablet.

We fly to Buenos Aires and stay there for a week, doing some tours,then fly to Mendoza and the wine region. Then we take a short flight over the Andes to Santiago in Chile. Both countries use pesos but not the same ones. We will visit the Maipo Valley and try more wine. Then we fly to Panama City and make a one week tour along the Panama Canal, which looks very exciting. But the tour's in German.

After that we fly to San Jose in Costa Rica where we stay for 3 weeks. After seeing the capital we will have a hire car to drive on tours of the Green North and the Wild South. We hope to see volcanoes, national parks, exotic birds and animals, turtles, and walk through the canopy of the rain forest. Then we spend our final week in Tamarindo on the Pacific coast, relaxing. We return late on 24 November, arriving back the following evening.